Which Acid is Right for Your Skin?

Acids. The word can be frightening in the context of skin care. But it shouldn’t be. While acids are prolific exfoliators, that doesn’t make them harsh. Quite the opposite. Acids do amazing things to improve skin condition, and every skin type can benefit from them.

Each acid has its own unique benefits. Some are lead actors and some are supporting players. Dr. Fulton took advantage of this hierarchy in his formulations, which center around two main acids—retinoic and mandelic—and used others like salicylic, kojic, ascorbic, lactic, and glycolic to complement and boost the performance of the leads.

Here is a review of the stars that deliver the most impactful and dramatic performances.

While not technically an acid, retinol (vitamin A) transforms into retinoic acid in the body and works to accelerate cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and reverse free radical damage. It’s the gold standard for treating acne and signs of aging. For acne-prone skin, it will work quickly to peel out impactions, however, because it’s not an anti-bacterial, it’s helpful to add an antibacterial to the mix like salicylic or mandelic acid.

Great for all skin types, those with dark or sensitive skin, in particular, should get familiar with mandelic acid. This alpha-hydroxy acid derived from almonds has a larger molecular structure than other AHAs, which means it’s absorbed more slowly so it won’t irritate skin or trigger hyperpigmentation. Its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and melanin-inhibiting properties make it ideal for targeting the big three concerns: acne, discoloration, and signs of aging.

Because of its small molecular size, glycolic penetrates more quickly than other AHAs, dissolving the cellular “glue” binding dead skin cells and sloughing them away to help avoid buildup that blocks pores. In addition to accelerating cell turnover, glycolic acid stimulates collagen production and promotes a smoother texture and more consistent tone.

Salicylic is a beta hydroxy acid that is oil-soluble, which is what allows it to enter the pore where it flushes out cellular buildup, oil, and bacteria to prevent breakouts. It can be over-drying on its own, which is why it’s often tempered with other ingredients. But too much tempering can render it powerless, so the right blend is essential. Vivant's Daily Repair Pads combine salicylic with other key ingredients like Clinical Mandelic Acid, lactic acid, and niacinamide. 

This antioxidant powerhouse is essential to collagen synthesis. It’s also a natural brightener and powerful photoprotective agent. Use it as a daily UV shield to guard against wrinkles, dark spots, and fine lines, and to promote elasticity and even tone.

As the counterpart to collagen and the chief agent for moisture retention and elasticity, hyaluronic acid is essential to youthful looking skin. Vivant's FF3 Hydra Intensive HA is a concentrated hyaluronic acid and peptide booster serum to lift, increase moisture levels and deliver a plumped, youthful appearance. 

Amino acids are building blocks of protein. They link together in small chains to form peptides, which stimulate skin's natural production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin.

Derived from milk, this gentle exfoliator has been a favorite for brightening, smoothing, and softening skin since ancient times. Lactic acid is non-irritating because its larger molecular structure keeps it mostly on the surface of the skin. It’s effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines, bringing a firming lift to sagging skin, and helping to diminish pigmentation, age spots, and acne scarring. Its humectant properties mean lactic acid draws moisture making it ideal for mature or sensitive skin.

Mainly known for its ability to inhibit the production of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis, kojic acid fades dark spots and prevents new pigment formation making it ideal for combatting melasma, hyperpigmentation, and age spots.